Roma

I was here at Christmas and saw my good pal David.  What good fortune to be able to see him again so soon. And in a city that never disappoints (unless you actually live here and need any plumbing, electrical or governments services)

Early Morning, Trastevere

Got up and out this morning for one more "giro" around the piazza before setting sail for the new world.  This piazza, "David's" piazza, Santa Maria in Trastervere always feels like it would lend itself well to a time lapse photography piece:  the sun starts rising,  few early risers enter, a nun crosses herself and then the plaza, a gaggle of tourists materializes waiting for their guide's instructions.  The cafe raises its metal gates and opens for business.  The local gypsies set up for their day of begging making sure they have the tools of their trade:  cups and kids.  Soon there will be a flower vendor and a guitarist will play while sitting on the steps of the fountain.

Life begins here as it has for centuries and today I am a part of it all. 

I went inside the basilica which was built on the very spot where olive oil flowed the day Christ was born.  (Convenient. And tasty! ) I say a prayer of gratitude and I am indeed grateful to be part of this place and this moment and this day.  For tomorrow it will all happen without me. 

Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere or The Light in the Piazza Goes Off

My final night in Rome and in Europe for this trip.  It is raining.  It is Boxing/St. Stephen's Day.  I am content and restless.  How does one stay in the moment when one knows it will all fade so quickly!!?  Yes, I still muse like a teenage diarist!  But I know the taxis of New York and my life there will erase this place and though photos will be evocative, I will still doubt them. 

Do I want to defect? No.  But Paris and Rome are such powerful places and you know their histories are part of your own somehow and I leave feeling inadequate and humbled and a little stupid.  Oh and obese. And somehow I don't think I will read Cato and I feel the stress of that not bothering me like I think it should.

But tonight as I walked through this piazza which is David's piazza as he lives right off of it and I have shared this place with Brian and Tricia on past trips and David on many trips and I thought as we got gelato and walked by this fountain from 1472 still spewing water, that this moment is the history and all the Caesars and Augusti and Napoleon's mothers before me did not have this and should I choose to be overwhelmed then I miss this exact moment in the piazza with a really incredibly dear, dear pal whom I have only grown closer to and I will miss more than all faded empires before me.

Grazie e Auguri Roma.

Ciao David e grazie.

Buon Natale da Roma

What an amazing Christmas day it has been for me here in Rome. David and I got up and went to St. Peter's on the scooter. We by dumb luck happened to be standing in the right place at the right time when they opened up the seats for the Pope's “Urbi et Orbi” (to the City and to the World) blessing and message from the balcony of St. Peter's. We just jumped in and got 3RD ROW CENTER seats. To give some idea I have taken this over the Pope's shoulder photo from the internet and if you imagine 3rd row in from the FRONT right off that middle aisle there and then you look back at the masses that was where we were in all of it. It was amazing.

 

This just in...

Pope knocked down by woman at Christmas Mass tonight. I was not there. I was not wearing a dress. He is okay.

Christmas Eve, Rome

David and I went to the Vatican not to see the Pope as the Pope has totally sold out.  Of tickets, I mean.  There were snaking queues for him of hundreds upon hundreds, but we came to see the tree and the crèche.  Really beautiful in the rain. 

Rome was strangely empty this evening, but not so strange as most Italians are home with their families eating seafood.

We walked back through the streets and went to a church where the nativity is done in bread! Bread of life. Get it?

We happened by the Trevi fountain which is NEVER without people, but the numbers were the lowest I have ever seen tonight.  It is beautiful so lit up.

Ciao Roma. David's Compleano

David and Carmine.  Way better trees in Rome than Paris!

 Paolo

I am in Rome now.  David and I flew Air France this afternoon.   We had his birthday lunch in Paris and his dinner was here in Rome at the home of his good friend's Carmine and Paolo.



What an excellent fest it was!  Elizabeth, another ex-pat American made a cheesecake as David's fave desserts are American.  And it was excellent.

Carmine made the rest of the meal: lasagne, two kinds of meat balls, fennel and orange salad, and coffee and dates and figs. Lovely.

I met Fabrizio and Benedetto as well as Tanno and Mima the two lovely big dogs.

David deserves a grand birthday because he is such a nice person.  It was clear that a lot of people love him and he has very wonderful friends in Rome who take good care of him.  I have to say it makes me happy to see that!