Musée d'Orsay

I felt guilt at not coming back here this trip. I didn't seem to for the Louvre, but somehow here. So I got back here on my last day in Paris this trip and surrounded myself with art that was both moving and woeful.  And all in the most magnificent train station cum museum in the monde!  

I have to say I think of my sister Seona when I am here. I think she would love it. 


It is such a French place to be in so many ways.  Duh, it is in France, but it is somehow more than that.



Such a bummer that they are doing improvements. I say this selfishly as I was not able to walk out and look over the Seine which is part of being at Musée d'Orsay for me. But nonetheless seeing Vincent and those Courbet's!  Wow, those Courbet's!   They were amazing.  I am moved.  I am sad. I had to leave.

Le Flâneur

Paris.  Many people have written about this city. And, of course.  It just takes you.  I often felt that Hawaii was lost becuase it was overrun with tourists, but I found there was still paradise to be found there. The same for Paris. It is crazy popular, but it has a nook and a cranny for every soul who seeks it out.   You know in this city that it is only yours to lease and you will move on and be dead, but Paris will stay and mesmerize others after you.  This in itself tells me to enjoy every crepe-y second I can have here when it is still mine.

I headed out early this morning and strolled through the Marais as the vendors were just setting up. Then I went across the Pont Neuf and stood on the very tip of the Ile de la Cité as if it were my own discovery.  No one else was there and I was standing in the middle of the Seine.  In-Seine I tell you!

 

I then walked around St-Germain-des-Prés and ended up at the Musée d'Orsay.    All on my own. With myself in the middle of the virbrant city that has hosted centuries of me's.

Brasserie Bofinger

For our last night in Paris, David and I went to Bofinger, probably the oldest brasserie in Paris and right in our neighborhood in the Bastille.   My friend Phil recommended it and he and Helga go there when en Pareeee. 

It is a beautiful place and evokes the belle epoque quite readily.  The food was good. I especially enjoyed David's streak tartare.  And the seafood platters (next time I go with someone who likes to share something as beautiful and seafoody as this!) were gorgeous.

The waiters were the cliche Frenchiest we had in Paris so far.  Meaning: SO not nice and just could care less. That was a shame.  And here I tried so hard.  Oh well.

Thanks Phil. All was great except for the total disdain of the waiters.  Would go back, but dressed as a French person.

It never dawned on me, but it is SO not pronounced "BO-finger" but rather "Bo-fawn-zhay."  I love saying it ten times fast now.  It is like giving your mouth a personal massage.

Today's Bad Christmas Tree in Paris

Surely this tree at the Conciergerie where they imprisoned people before they chopped their heads off should have lost its noggin.  This pathetic arbre is surrounded by Reynold's wrap masking a "decorative" and topped with something akin to Mrs. Claus's panties which got flung from a campsite after an outdoor assignation.

Truly scary.

La Conciergerie, Paris. Not a Place to Be.

Today we went to the Conciergerie on the Île de la Cité, the island in the middle of the Seine where Notre Dame is. The Conciergerie is a medieval palace that became a prison.   Loads of prisoners were sent here and then to the to guillotine in the French Revolution.





Marie Antoinette was here in this room (reproduction, but tapestry was her real rug they think.) That is not actually her, but a stack of exercise balls covered with a black tarp to look like her.





Just like the extensive list of people who came through Ellis Island, here are names of the people who simply lost their heads during this revolution.  Did not see my family name there.

The funniest thing was the bathroom here at this way-station for decapitation. Both male and female figures have their heads missing on the toilette door!

Dejeuner

Lovely aubergine (eggplant) and black sesame seed starter at Zen Garden, Paris

Diner avec Pascal et Sebastian

David's friends Pascal and Sebastian met us for dinner and it was another wonderful Parisien evening full of food, fun and French lessons.  Pascal and Sebastian spent some time with me explaining proper tongue placement for U and Ou.  Pain in the ass.  Funny how the sounds from "Nous" and "Nus" sound so the same to us English speakers yet we can clearly distinguish "color" and "collar" and expect them to do the same.  I have a greater appreciation. I always delighted in hearing the Italians talk about "changing the shits on the bed."

Tonight tongue lesson was 'Nous sommes nus"  We are nude.

The Paris Opera

David and I had both never been inside the Paris Opera and tour was not happening today since there was a matinee of the ballet school kids performing.  What to do? Go see the ballets school kids perform. 

The building is just stunning inside and out.  I would love to have been able to get backstage and down in the bowels where the Phantom hangs out, but we did get into a booth, stall, private balcony whatever where it was completely covered in material and there was a mirror, beautiful coat hooks and basically a fainting couch for our private use.

 

The kids were great, but unless you were a parent, it was not necessary to stay past intermission. We took that time to explore the lobby and marble staircases privately whilst all others were inside.  Perfect way to see the place for €7.

 

Diner avec Olivier et Philippe et David et Moi

David and I were invited over to my friend Oliver's house in the 1st for dinner tonight.  Getting invited into someone's home in Paris (or anywhere for that matter) is just such a personal touch that I always enjoy.  It was great to see Olivier again and I got to meet his husband Philippe. They got "Civil Unioned" in September.  Philippe is a lovely and gracious guy and they both made us feel so welcome.

Olivier et Philippe

Their apartment in stunning with a (freezing) view on the terrace of Sacre Coeur, The Eiffel Tower, the Louvre and about all of it.



We sat down to a lovely meal of Coquille St. Jacques and this amazing tomato tarte from Provence that had the bite of mustard between the tomatoes and the soft pastry.



Before dessert we had the obiligatory cheese plate which had this incredible brie with truffle. Wow.

We admired this painting they have by a French artist. I wish I could remember his name. He shows at the Place des Vosges they told me and I just loved this piece.  Olivier looked a lot like the man standing right by his nose in the painting so I took him in it.



Then it was time for Garage Band.  This is that computerized set up that is the rage the world o'er.  You can be a Beatle or a heavy metal dude. But you are graded.  I was a very, very poor George Harrison on the bass, but I loved every minute of my middle-aged rocker self!

A very fine evening and I was pleased to introduce David to Olivier and Philippe since they all live in Paris.

Oliver, Philippe, David

et voila.

Paris Gallerie