Ash Friday

Our flight from Vienna to New York went via Dublin.  This would not be an issue normally but the airport shut due to Iceland's volcanic ash.  This along with the produce vendors losing their shirts because they were not able to get their wares to Europe, their biggest customer, shows that we all indeed share this planet. ("No, Iceland that is YOUR volcanic ash, we will have nothing to do with it.  Freedom Ash!")

Anyway, it was not looking good to fly out of Ireland, but the airport did reopen the day before.  Being stranded in Europe is NOT the worst thing I could think of, however. 

Two hours were added to the flying time as the plane had to go around the ash. Who ever heard of such a thing?  But who ever heard of a mega-ton metal contraption being able to fly through the air.  Man and nature continue to astound.

We landed safely in New York at 10:30pm having had breakfast that morning in Vienna.  I thought of my secret historical crush, John Adams who tooks months to get to Paris and overshot it by boat and landed in Spain only to have to take a donkey 1000 miles with his young son. It took days.  Drag.

Food - Vienna

Besides museums and palaces Vienna is food. Especially pastry.  I know I may get killed for this but it seems to me Vienna has two savory dishes if you don't get into the goulash debate and those are Tafelspitz which is not as enticing in English as it is "boiled beef." BUT it has all these cool condiments like applesauce with FRESH horseradish and chive cream and this INCREDIBLE pureed spinach which is usually saved for the beginning and end of one's live when teeth are not present, but it HAS to be savored now. I loved it. The best Tafelspitz I had was at HUTH, this wonderful modern restaurant in District 1 was wünderbar.

The other savory dish is of course, Wienderschnitzel.  We ate it at the best place for it, Figlmüller. This place is as fun to eat at as it is to say.  I loved it. And it is served with this wonderful potato salad with lamb's lettuce and pumpkin seed oil.

That having been said, I would not choose pounded veal breaded and fried as my national dish.  I just wouldn't. I would go for a wurst or some incredible pasta thing or healthy fish stew.  This from a guy with a haggis/fish and chips background.

But the pastries...

I have always wanted to write a film titled "Cafe Society" and this would be the place to film it.  They have loads of 200 year old cafes where you can just sit and drink gorgeous coffee and gorge on Sachertorte.  That is life in Vienna and no one thinks less of you with Schlag all over your mouth. 

We ate at Demel, Cafe Scharzenberg (ask for the sublime and funny Andreas), Sacher (You just gotta), Landtmann (effin' schön) and the wonderful cafe in the Kunsthistorische Museum.  Sadly Vienna is not short of Starbucks like every other place on the planet.

Aida is a chain bakery that is lovely and the pink motif works.

Kultur, Wien

 My travelling companion Ellie asked me a really unfair question, "Would you rather live in Venice and Vienna?"  Much like "Would you rather sleep with Betty or Wilma?" -both have so much to recommend them, but I had to say Vienna.  As much as I LOVE Venice, I though Vienna was this incredibly cultured place that was so present-day vibrant and Venice is really a lovely jewel-box.  Plus I would just be an Alps away from the Grand Canal where I would weekend with Gunther and...   Oops sliding into a fantasy world again. 

Vienna looks like a city that has cleaned up since WWII, but can't hide that it was heavily bombed. (Much like I was in the 90's!)  Yet, it possesses charm, elegance and edge.  I loved it all.

Oh and the other answer is Wilma, but really probably Barney.

Vienna, Austria

My first truly Viennese Apfelstrudel und Kaffee.  Divine.

Venice, Italy

I have been to Venice many times. In fact I could really say I lived here for a while in the 80's. But I have never approached by ship.  Venice never ceases to amaze. It is a magical place like no other in the world.  I know this has been said by others more eloquently, but no matter, it is a place of history, magic, beauty and romance. And tourists and pigeons.

The view as we entered from the ship.  As if Marco Polo were on Holland-America and just finished his breakfast on the Lido deck.

This is how packages are delivered, Venetian-style

Split, Croatia

This wins the total pleasant surprise award for the trip.  LOVED Split and would go back.  Beautiful place and Diocletian's Palace rocks.

Croatian Riviera. Ellie standing and me sitting on a bollard.  No comments please.

Albania!!

Okay raise your hands.  Who among you has had a lifelong obession to go to Albania. Remember that country that you weren't allowed to even look at when you were toting your "Let's Go Europe" book in your backpack along the Adriatic?

Well, here I was fatter, greyer and on a cruise ship docking at this mysterious country.  We were in the town of Sarande.  Sad to say this town had not a lot going for it.  It looked like the whole place was designed by one Eastern block architect in the 1980's.  The WHOLE place done in one tacky Butterick pattern. 

I guess Albania has a lot of catch up to hook the tourist trade, but if it plays its cards right and listens to me, it could be the next Croatia.

The one sort of relic thing in town: (I will translate for you: "Culture Monument".)

Sarande, Albania's version of the Spanish Steps:

The real Spanish Steps across the street in Rome, Italy